Category Archives: Cathedral

Day 34 – Guanajuato – A day in Paradise

I‘ve been hearing alot about a town about an hour’s bus ride west of here called Guanajuato (wan-a-wa-toe) and figured maybe today was the day to check it out. The night before I’d asked Barb, a lady that I met several days earlier, if she’d like to join me, as she’d never been to Guanajuato either. She agreed and we headed out early for the main bus depot. Having been been spoiled on the Premiera Plus on my trip here from Puerta Vallarta, we decided to travel in luxury, at least heading west. It was nice traveling in the daylight, as I missed about the last fifteen miles of scenary into San Miguel. Looking back to the east this is a very pictureque city nestled in the foothills of the mountains.

After about an hours busride we arrived into what I thought was Guanajuato, based on my trip through there a week ago. Turns out we needed to jump on another bus to Centro, or the center of town. This bus was a new low in busdom, with plastic seats, rickety suspension that felt every imprefection in the road, but was able to climb the long pull up hill with breakneck speed. I’d heard this town was built over abandoned mine tunnels, but was unprepared for the maze, as these tunnels were everywhere. It was also quite impressive in the way it reduced much of the surface traffic found in my cities the size of 80,000 residents. I would be negligent if I didn’t mention the small child that I saw sitting in the front seat, on what was probably his grandmothers lap. He was probably the cutest child I’ve ever seen, with his overly expressive big brown eyes, and brown hair that just covered his eyebrows. The picture that I took really doesn’t capture him the way I wanted, as he kept on looking a way everytime I tried to take his picture.

After about fifteen minutes we finally make it to the what look like the center of town. The jardin, or town square was several blocks away. In each of the Mexican cities that I have visited over the last four weeks, each of them had a square where there would be center stage surrounded by trees and large open courtyard. This one in Guanajuato topped all others with it’s fountains, beautifully colored flowers and the natural canopy provided manicured trees. Around the edges were restaurants and assorted businesses. This was a special place. On the southern edge of the square was the Tietro Juarez, an ornately decorated theater. I was told later that I should have gone inside, as it was elaborately decorated with wood inlays from around the world. Next time!

One thing different about this town than all the others that I’d been to was there was a youthful vibrancy. Turns out in this city of 80,000 there is a university known for it’s theater and arts program with 21,000 students. I would have loved to stayed later into the evening to see the youthful activity, but as it was we took the last bus out.

I think the most striking thing in Guanajuato was the colorful homes and businesses that clung to the bowl-shaped hillside. Every color of the rainbow was represented here. I’m sure this town would be every artist’s dream, as no paint tubes would be left unused.

Every town has a mercado, and this town would be no different. But what we did find different here, outside this large two-storied building, were large trucks and generators with an assortment of large cables running out of them, through the market’s front doors. Upon further investigation, we found they were filming a movie here, complete with bright lights, a large expensive-looking camera on tracks and people with headsets, standing around everywhere. At the center of all this attention. were two small children with a piggy bank, standing in front of a market booth, being coached by a director. I doubt that I will ever see this movie, as it appears everythig was in Spanish. But from what I’ve learnt before…never say never.

Before I left, I ask Juan, the owner of Cafe Etc if I could only see one thing in Guanajuato, what would it be? Without hesitation he said the Museo de las momias or the museum of the mummies. So after a very long walk up a very steep hill guided first by big signs pointing the way, and then by hand painted signs on the sides of buildings and finally by locals, who must have gotten conditioned to the migration of tourist in search of mummies, gave us the final few pointers. So for fifty pesos or five bucks, we got to see this morbid collections of bodies. Instincts should have told me to stay away…far away, as I’d known about the Mexican holiday -Day of the Dead. I won’t go into great detail but I think I will stick with more traditional holidays like Christmas and EasterTo top it off the busride down this hill could make a star attraction at any disneyland resort. Throw a couple of ghouls and goblins in for special effects. ….Alls I know is that Juan owes Barb and me a free espresso!!! ….All I know is that Juan owes Barb and me a free espresso!!! I will collect mine tomorrow.

Note: Excuse me for not putting a mummy picture here…I’m still trying to visually erase it from my conscious and not really sure why I even brought my camera in there…other than just a little morbid curiousity.

Earlier in the day we tried walking up the narrow bricked sidewalk towards the statue of El Pipila, a sixty foot tall statue that silently watches over the hill, but got turned around by a surly collection of dogs. Turns out, as we found out later, we zigged when we should have zagged. So before we left this magical city, we absolutely had to visit the majestic statue. Turns out there was this tramway that ran up the side of the hill. Fifteen pesos and a quick two minute ride, we were at the top of the hill…not quite. About another hundred steps and a hundred vendors we were at the base of El Pipila. The view from up here was iabsolutely incredible, as we could take in all the buildings and the surrounding hillsides. I could have sat up there for hours taking in all the sights but we had a bus to catch.

I could go on and on about this city describing this absolutely amazing place . It’s a place that needs revisiting. As I get closer to my departure date, I feel guilty spending so much time in Puerta Vallarta, as it’s left me hurried to take in as much as I can. To my friends I say, Mexico is a country to be experienced. It’s given me a greater sense of who we are as a society, as a culture. The United States has a direct connection to Mexico, more than just the physical one. Though we are separated by a border and a language, we share many things in common. It’s been said that America is a melting pot, and I would add that the Mexican cutural influences have added the spice. This is a place that has touched me in a way that I never thought I could be touched. I am a changed person because of it. Thank you Mexico….I will be back!!!

Here are some pictures from Paradise-
Guanajuato Pictures and a bit more

Day 29 – Hangin’ wit my homies.

Sort of a strange day, or should I strange night, in that there was a couple of bands playing at Atotonilco about a half mile away. The music played until at least three a.m., followed by what sounded like mortar fire for the next several hours. And if that was not enough, a Catholic mass was being performed over a mega speaker system interspersed with a cacophony of clanging church bells…all this before six in the morning. In fact it was so loud, and relentless, rather than trying to ignore it, I opened my door to the patio. Figured if you can’t beat, join ’em…The final chorus consisted of crowing roosters, barking dogs and cooing doves.

At about seven, I couldn’t stand it any longer, I had to see what all the ruckus was aboutl I got dressed in my Sunday’s finest (ok…it was only jeans and a polo shirt) and off I went to town. I was mildly disappointed by what I saw. I expected to see smoldering ruins of the old church, drunken townspeople…and maybe a few deafened dogs laying in the street, but instead found merchants readying booths for todays market. I quess I’d just have to come back later…and that’s what Magali (I’m now forced to call her Maggie because I’ve had the most difficult time pronoucing her name), Mike and myself do mid-afternoon.

By this time the market is packed with vendors of all kinds of religious ware, pottery, wooden chairs, and assorted trinkets and then interspersed with food booth. All of my vegetarian friends might want to quit reading…..now!
~~~~~~~ 1 potato
~~~~~~~ 2 potato
~~~~~~~ 3 potato
~~~~~~~ 4 potato
~~~~~~~ more!!!

I had a bowl of menudo. If you don’t know what it is, let the curousity go, if you do know, I apologize. I think the last time I had a bowl of this traditional mexican New Year’s soup was January 1, 1980 at a restaurant on White Pass Washington. It may be another twenty-eight years before I sit down to another bowl of menudo. I must say I’d did enjoy the spiciness of this chili based soup. Thanks to Richard Taylor and his incendiary five-alarm pickled peppers that prepared me for this day.

Ok vegies..you can continue reading from here – sorry Bob if you’re reading this. Hopefully you’re still talking to me when I get back.

I also revisited the inside of the church and took a few more pictures. Today, I felt just a bit awkward as there were a handful of people either sitting in the pews or genuflecting on old tatered leather-bound kneelers…brings back some haunting memories from my childhood…torture at it’s finest!!!

Heading back the three of us had a leisurely stroll back to the casita. Mike has invited some friends from town over for a potluck dinner. Should be an enjoyable evening. John and Nina just left for home. What an enjoyable couple! They are both teachers from the upper N.E. United States, who between the two of them could fill a shelf full of books with their personal stories. The bad thing is the night just went by way to quickly. I seem to spend more time in SMA talking to people than sight seeing….and I guess that’s not a bad thing when the company is as great as it is here.

Just as the early morning start with a bang, the late night did as well, though the evening’s entertainment was provided by none other than Mother Nature. A nice electric storm came in just about the time the sun set and lasted well into the night….BRAVO!!!

A little sidenote
Just received a picture from my daughter, Kelly, showing the piled up snow at home…eek!!!

How do you say “I hate snow” in Spanish?
They don’t …cuz it don’t snow here!!!

I should hide these Pictures taken today
Buenos noches – Roberto